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Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Creating Deep Cuts with Molding Wax

By Lisa Johnson

This effect is for creating slit wrists or deep gashes in the face.  This effect is a bit more in depth than the rest, but if done correctly it can be the most effective special effect technique without the use of prosthetics.

You will need more products than in the last few blogs and it will take some patience, but the results are far better than just using latex or gelatin.

Using molding wax allows you to change the shape of the face or body part.  It also allows for creating a loss of depth in the skin, like a cut or a gash.  You can also put items in the skin when using wax, like staples, thread, or even glass.

You will need the following items to complete a cut:

Molding wax
Spatula
Spirit Gum
A sealing product such as Ben Nye’s Final Seal
Oil
Bruise or Trauma Wheel
Stage Blood or thick blood

Step one – Remove a small amount of wax from the container with a spatula.

Step two – Take the wax and roll it into a snake shape in the length you’d like the cut to be and lay it onto the skin.

Step three – Flatten out the wax and begin to blend the edges out onto the skin.

Step four – Make sure that all the edges are blended as thin as possible so that they look like part of the skin around it and are as smooth as possible.

Step five – You will now use your spatula or molding tool to slice down the middle of the cut.

Step six – Make sure that you pull the edges to the sides to open up the cut so the skin below shows through.

Step seven – Apply oil on the wax to smooth out any rough edges. Blot it dry and apply a sealing product to ensure that the wax will take color and stay together. You may also apply spirit gum around the edges to keep the wax on the skin (You don’t have to use the spirit gum if you don’t want to. It is there to add a extra hold to make the cut longer lasting.).

Step eight – After the seal is dry begin using your Bruise or Trauma Wheel to apply color starting with yellow around the edges.

Step nine – Follow the wheel clockwise from color to color. Make sure you put some red down in the opening of the cut to simulate raw skin or blood.

Step ten – Apply a thicker blood down in the incision. The thick blood will look like the blood is starting to coagulate.

Step 11 – Once the thick blood is in the incision, you can tap a liquid or gel blood around to make it appear like the blood has run all over the cut.

February 21, 2013 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Massage Therapy, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

Here Is To A Healthy Holiday Season

By: Jennifer Hubbard, Nails and Esthetics Instructor

During this time of year we all know that we eat just a little more than we should. Here is something to help you keep the weight gain down and your skin hair and nails looking beautiful.
Low-fat dairy products high in vitamin A: carrots, liver, paprika, red pepper, cayenne pepper, chili powder, Sweet potatoes and dark leafy greens. Some of these foods are also good for diabetes and thyroid conditions. Low-fat yogurt is high in vitamin A and has “live” bacteria which is good for intestinal health.
BlackBerries, blueberries, strawberries and plums all share a common link which is high in anti-oxidant content. They may also help in protecting against free radicals
Artichokes, beans, prunes and pecans help in premature aging.
The key foods for healthy skin which deliver essential fatty acid are salmon, walnuts, canola oil and flaxseed. The reason these are so healthy for you is they provide a healthy cell membrane which acts as a barrier to harmful things also they act as a passageway for nutrients to cross in and out and for waste products to get in and out of the cell. The cell membrane holds water in which in turn creates a stronger barrier to give you more plumper younger looking skin.
Foods high in Omega 3 are Fish, walnut and flaxseed oil.
Healthy oils are oils prepared by cold-press or expeller process they are olive oil and extra virgin oil. You should take no more than 2 tablespoons a day.
To reduce skin damage by the sun you’ll need to eat whole wheat bread, muffins, cereals, turkey, tuna and Brazil Nuts. These all contain selenium.
Green tea has anti-inflammatory properties to protect cell membrane also they may help prevent or reduce the risk of skin cancer.
Water is a good hydration about eight glasses a day of pure, clean water. Water also helps cells move nutrients in and toxins out.
So make sure you are eating some of these great foods and you’ll get through these holidays with beautiful skin and no weight gain!!

January 11, 2013 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Double What?

Some of you may be familiar with or heard of the double cleanse. This isn’t an OCD bathing ritual; it’s an important step in the care and cleansing of your skin, namely your face of course.

The purpose or ideology behind the double cleanse is that you are using an initial cleanse, usually done with an oil based product, to actual break down makeup and debris (visible or not) from the surface of the skin. After the first cleanse is complete you move on to the second cleanse where you are able to massage with the cleanser to remove any impurities from deeper within the pores.

Let’s fine tune the steps and make some suggestions….

Some products here at the Skintourage that we find effective are:

  • Circadia: Vitamin Veil
  • Wheat germ oil
  • Shu Uemura cleansing oils
  • Pur minerals : Mineral Melt
  • Coconut oil
  • DHC: Deep Cleansing Oil

This process is done in the evening to prepare the skin for its detoxing and repairing stages done during sleep. In the morning using only your cleanser will suffice. To begin the double cleanse you will start with dry hands and dry face. Emulsify dime size amount of the oil in your hands and begin to massage onto face. Immediately you will notice all makeup begin to break down. Unless you want to people to think you’ve gone mad by rubbing your makeup all over your face, this should be done in private. Once you feel that all makeup is broken down you then can remove oil and residue with a damp or dry cloth.

  • I know most of you are cringing at the thought of oils on your face, especially if you are oily. Rest assured that this will not cause your skin to become more oily, and should assist in the control of breakouts, not cause more.

Now that all makeup is removed you are able to start with the cleanser of choice for your skins needs. Keep in mind that cleansers, much like shampoo are on the skin for a very short uneventful amount of time. To short of a time to remove any impurities the way most people use them. Be sure to use a mild cleanser, if most cleansers do anything its strip any moisture and natural oils from your skin. That equals irritation, dryness and in some cases overproduction of sebum (oils), none of which anyone wants. Choose your cleanser carefully. The tight, dry or itchy feeling after you cleanse is not a good sign.

When properly cleansing the skin you need to apply a small amount of cleanser and emulsify in hands. The face should be slightly damp as well as the hands as you begin to massage and knead the skin. No pulling tugging or stretching, this is slow and gentle. You are kneading the skin to help purge the pores. Don’t forget the neck, and even décolleté. This cleaning process should last anywhere from 1- 3 minutes. Rinse skin with hands or cloth. Follow with toner to remove any remaining residue. Optional to follow with facial scrub as recommended, then be sure to apply all necessary treatments and moisturizers.

This may seem over the top, extreme or time consuming, but trust me your skin will thank you for it. Plus you’ll thank yourself when receive complements on your glowing skin!

December 10, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

Fall 2012 Makeup Trends

By: Lisa Johnson, Esthetics Instructor

Just as the seasons change, so do our trends for makeup.  This fall is no exception.  From vampy goth looks to natural fresh skin, this fall is all about the artistic side of makeup.  Some of the looks are bold but don’t forget that the classic looks are timeless and always in style.

Here are a few of the most popular looks for fall 2012:

FACE –

Fall faces are in one word “flawless”.  Skin should be natural but polished.  The look is one of less, but still perfection.  It should be slightly contoured, keeping very monochromatic in color.  Fresh skin is in!!! (MUA,  Amber Bowen)

CHEEKS –

This fall cheeks are all about a flush of color!  Rosy cheeks are back.  Just a bit of color on the apples of the cheeks, not the regular contoured blush.

EYE SHADOW –

Eyes are very exciting for the fall. Can we say, Drama Drama Drama?  Lots of amazing color!  Green, gray, and bright blues are the go to colors.  Multi toned with accents of gold make eye shadow a fun way to spice up a look. (MUA, Evony Wells)

If eye color isn’t your cup of tea, you are in luck!  Smokey browns are just as in style!  Any hue is acceptable from brown to khaki.  The key is to make sure that the color is blurred out to give it that smokey appearance. (MUA, Morgan Black)

EYE LINER –

Eyeliner is graphic this fall, bold in shape and in color.  Bright blues, greens, and traditional black are the colors seen most on the runway.  Liner is angled with sharp lines and big exaggerated curves.  It’s all about artistic looks. (MUA, Noelia Boyd, and Morgan Black)

MASCARA –

Traditional mascara is always in style.  This fall bright blue and green mascara can also be seen to give a pop of color to even a soft makeup look.

BROWS –

Brows are groomed and tamed.  Using a pencil and shadow to add color makes any brow stand out.  To keep the brows in place it is all about the brow gel. (MUA, Murrell Collins)

LIPS –

Lips are a major focal point this fall.  Mulberry, Black Cherry, and Deep Plum are the rage.  This vampire inspired look is beautiful, but don’t forget to add blush so you don’t feel and look washed out.  It’s a powerful look and should only be worn by the daring. (MUA, Murrell Collins)


If the vampy look isn’t your thing, red is always a great substitute.  Matte and glossy reds can make a bold statement without the washed out look you can get from the deep violets. (MUA, Evony Wells)

November 28, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

10 Reasons We’re Cuckoo For Coconut Oil

By Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor

This nut may fall close to the tree but its powers reach far beyond the sand.  Smear it, cook with it, eat it – there’s almost nothing it can’t do.  We’re talking rich, raw, pure virgin coconut oil – the godly grease that seems to be the hottest thing to drop lately.  From the outside in and back again, here are 10 ways to indulge in this tropical multi-tasker:

  1. Your new favorite moisturizer Comparable to that of mineral oil, coconut oil is a safe, effective moisturizer for all skin types and offers up to 20% UV protection (the actual SPF value is still up for debate so be sure to protect yourself accordingly).
  2. A split-end hair treatment Ladies, we’re talking natural nutrition for your hair and for the bros with fros, you could give it a go too.  Next time your frays are feeling fried, work a bit of coconut oil through your hair to spruce up those dead ends (warning: a little goes a long way!).  Apply before bedtime and wash it out in the morning.  You’ll be ready to brave your day with soft locks straight from the tropics.
  3. A natural eye-makeup remover Smear a little bit of coconut oil on a cotton ball and eye makeup be gone!  It even works on waterproof mascara after those long days at the beach.  Play on sun lovers!
  4. A kitchen staple Coconut oil won’t burn thanks to its high smoke and boiling point, making it a staple in the kitchen.  It can be used to grease pans (and wooden cutting boards too), to cook with and even to replace butter in your baking at a 1-to-1 ratio (it’s a game changer for vegan/gluten-free baking).
  5. A natural bug repellent Fight off the little fellas by mixing coconut oil with peppermint oil extract.  Your skin will thank you; the bugs won’t.
  6. A twist on a ‘pop’ular snack Mix with butter and toss on your popcorn for a (mostly) healthy snack.  Ryan Gosling movie marathon, here we come!
  7. Lip balm Keep your pucker soft and supple by rubbing a little coconut oil onto your lips.  It works as a softening agent and even provides a little bit of sun protection.
  8. A natural healing agent Applying coconut oil to scrapes and cuts will help create a shield over the wound and protect it from dust, bacteria and viruses.  On bruises the oil speeds up the healing process by repairing damaged tissues and on bug bites it keeps itching at bay.
  9. A fitness and energy boost A spoonful of coconut oil won’t necessarily help the medicine go down (then again it probably could do that tot) but it does serve as a great endurance pick-me-up for athletes and has also been prove to fire up your metabolism.
  10. Shaving cream Coconut oil lessens irritation on the face and neck, detoxifies skin as you shave, and moisturizes all at once.  Also, the oil makes it easier and faster to clear razor blades as they are used.
November 19, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Scar Free: Extractions Done Right

By Jennifer Hubbard, Esthetics and Nails Instructor

Everyone gets those nasty little blackheads or whiteheads that come up. You push and squeeze to try to get all that built in dirt out and all that happens is half of it comes out and your left with a sore area and possibly a scar. Well this blog will teach you how to properly extract them without leaving that scar.

The first thing you want to do before any extractions is take a warm shower or steam your face. You can best see blackheads and whiteheads right after this because the steam helps open up your pores. Make sure the lighting is good and use gloves when extracting.

There are 3 different ways to properly extract. You can use Q-tips, cotton/gauze or an extracting tool. All of these are used by professionals and if used correctly will help you avoid those dreadful scars.

Q-tips: When using Q-tips to extract you want to make sure you are wearing gloves. You will use 2 Q-tips and place one on each side of the area needed to be extracted, and roll the Q-tips down and then up towards the blackhead. Wipe off the area with the Q-tip and throw away then wipe the area with a toner best suited for their skin type.

Cotton/Gauze: Make sure you are using gloves and wrap a piece of gauze or cotton around your index fingers and follow the same procedure for Q-tips, using your index fingers.

Extracting Tool: With this tool you will place the hole of the extractor over the area to be extracted. Press down with the extracter and give it a little wiggle. Using this procedure you should be able to remove the debris without leaving any scars.

Now you can go and remove those random, stubborn blackheads and help your clients skin become more beautiful.

October 22, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Rosacea

By Marissa Mitchell, Esthetics Student

Everyone has their quirky characteristics; some people snort when they laugh, some people giggle when they are nervous, and some people hiccups when they are excited.  As for me, my face turns red and splotchy for a page-long list of reasons.  Before I learned about what Rosacea was, I just thought I had really weird, hyper sensitive skin and anyone I met would get my usual disclaimer: “My skin is really sensitive, if I go out in the sun, eat something spicy, or drink alcohol I get these really awesome splotches on my face.”   I often tried to make light of my skin condition, because I was, (and still am), self-conscious about it and felt I needed to address it before someone else did–which is even worse.  I often continued my self-deprecating rant with: “Just wanted you to know that I’m okay, I’m not having an allergic reaction- I was just blessed with bizarre skin; one of the many joys of being me!”

Once I learned about what Rosacea was it was like a light-bulb went off for me; suddenly it all made sense!  There was a clinical name and a diagnosis for my hyper-reactive, hyper-sensitive skin and it was called Rosacea.  The first thing I learned about Rosacea, was that I meet the criteria of who it commonly affects to a “T”: I am over 30, half Scandinavian, have relatives who have it, and I’m very fair-skinned.  Rosacea is essentially a non-contagious, chronic, inflammatory skin condition which causes the blood vessels in the face to dilate, in varying degrees.  There are several levels of Rosacea from mild, (my case), to severe.  Left untreated, it can become disfiguring.  Interestingly, doctors have not determined conclusively what causes Rosacea, nor is there a cure for it.  Common visual characteristics of Rosacea include:

  1. Flushing or blushing easily
  2. Redness, especially in the cheek, chin and nose area
  3. Telangiectasia (tiny blood vessels) on the face
  4. A red nose
  5. Acne-like skin that may ooze or crust

In addition, there are some common triggers, which can cause Rosacea flare-ups. Although my Rosacea is mild, it is triggered by everything listed.  By avoiding or being aware of triggers someone who suffers from Rosacea can reduce inflammation which is important because recurring inflammation can lead to more severe Rosacea which includes permanent redness and broken capillaries.  Common Rosacea triggers include:

  1. Sun exposure
  2. Temperature and weather
  3. Emotional distress
  4. Spicy food/ Hot food
  5. Strenuous activity
  6. Caffiene
  1. Some citrus fruits
  2. Foods high in histamine such as eggplant, spinach, vinegar, and soy sauce
  3. Alcohol, especially red wine

Learning more about Rosacea helped me accomplish several things which will help me in my future as an esthetician: first of all I have compassion and understanding for anyone who happens to have it, like I do, because it is not fun.  Secondly, I understand what Rosacea is so I can educate my clients on: what triggers to avoid, and ways to treat their skin to reduce inflammation such as using products meant for sensitive skin, avoiding harsh abrasives, using lukewarm water, and always wearing sunscreen.  Most importantly I can recognize it when I see it so I can make recommendations to my clients to see a dermatologist if their Rosacea is severe.  On a personal note, learning that Rosacea affects an estimated 16 million Americans, makes me feel like less of a weirdo, and I find that information comforting.

October 17, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Foods that Keep Your Skin Looking Fabulous

We have all heard the old adage “Beauty Is Only Skin Deep.” Well, recent research has shown that is not the case. Beauty actually begins on the inside, specifically in your gastrointenstinal tract. The foods you eat, and thus the micro/macronutrients you put in your body have a direct correlation on how healthy your skin is.

Here are a few things to make sure and keep stocked in your fridge this summer to keep you skin glowing:

Sweet Potatoes
Thanks to the large concentration of beta carotene found in sweet potatoes, they’re great for your complexion, and their protective qualities can even defend against sun exposure (but still use sun block, please).

Kiwi
A perfect summer snack, this tart-tasting treat is chock full of vitamin C (in fact, it contains more per serving than almost any other fruit). This vitamin C, in turn, helps the collagen in our skin stay firm. Other options for vitamin C: broccoli, strawberries, tomatoes, and, of course, oranges.

Sunflower Seeds
More than just a treat, sunflower seeds contain vast amounts of vitamin E, an antioxidant that slows the aging process of your skin, and can keep you looking younger for longer. You’ll also get a ton of Vitamin E from whole-grain cereals, Swiss chard, spinach, and more.

Tea
Full of antioxidants and phytonutrients, tea is a great break from the eight to ten glasses of water you should be drinking a day.

Salmon
This delectable fish is bursting with omega-3 fatty acids, which are proven to stave off the body’s production of inflammatory substances. This, in and of itself, can decrease your number of wrinkles, clogged pores, and troublesome fine lines.

Blueberries

Referred to as one of the “super foods.” This powerful little berry is choc full of antioxidants that help with cell repair and cell turnover.

October 8, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Brow Building Basics

So…… Let’s talk about eyebrow color. A frequent question I am asked is “What color should I use to fill in my eyebrows?” There are several rules to follow, and then as always in beauty the ways to break them. Let’s break it down by hair color.
Black/darkest brown tones: Filling in eyebrows true black can look amazing if done right (back to that in a moment), but the easiest or most desired option is to use a dark brown color. Choices of application being powder, pencil, or gels (optional). The main thing to look at in the color is that there isn’t much red in the brown.  Reddish browns look very off on the eyebrows.  You are looking for neutral tones, not going to warm or cool in the underlying tonalities. If you decide to go for the black, make sure your color is black-black. If the color is off the brows will look smudgy and grayish, not pretty.
Medium brown w/ or w/out highlights: This type of hair color needs to stick with again neutral brown, this time just a little lighter. Brows tend to look better darker than lighter. They are the face framers; they define the eye, and give expression to the face. Everyone should examine what their eyebrows are doing right now! Avoid the reddish undertone for these brows as well.
Light brown, dark blonde: The key color word for this hair is taupe. Taupe colors are your best friend. Again, lean to the darker side. If they are to light they will look gray and powdery. We are trying to match the darker hair, so highlights are somewhat disregarded.
Light to pale blondes:  Key color here again is taupe. Some blonde colors are to golden or even to red. These could be ok of you are of the strawberry blonde variety or you have put in highlights and/or lowlights of the red or copper family, but they are still a little weak or off for my taste. I still recommend taupe.
Gray/Salt & Pepper: You guessed it, Taupe. By far the most flattering color for gray, salt & pepper or white hair. These again should not be to warm or gray.
Red Head: Now just because you’re red doesn’t mean go all out lipliner red, oh wait, I’ve done that. That’s for later…Seriously though, find a neutral reddish color on the darker side of the hair color. or go with the neutral brown or darker taupe.
Aside from the mentioned above you can go all out with bright color, glitter, or the complete opposite of your hair color ie. Dark hair light brows, light hair dark brows. Whatever you feel comfortable with. Using gel brow color or colored mascaras can slightly alter the color to suit your needs and hold the hair in place.

Viola!!

Beautiful brows

October 2, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Delicious Skin Care: 5 Reasons Why Chocolate is GOOD for Your Skin

By Christen Brummett

It seems to me that most people will indulge in at least a little chocolate….or if you’re like me, indulge in a lot of chocolate.  Although indulging in chocolate can add quite a few calories, there are many properties to chocolate that actually make it healthy, especially dark chocolate. Because of this, chocolate is being added to more skin care products and lines every year. Here is why:

1.      Chocolate, specifically dark chocolate, is chock full of a specific type of antioxidant called flavanols. These wonderful antioxidants, when used on the skin, fight free radical damage seen by UV rays, smoke, smog and pollutants

2.      Caffeine is a natural diuretic which eliminates excess water. For the skin, it pulls out excess water that is stored in the form of puffiness (especially under the eyes)

3.      Dark chocolate has been proven to be an anti-inflammatory. Many recent studies show that a piece of dark chocolate can equal the affects of an aspirin. Decreases inflammation in the skin and allows for the skin to repair quicker and more effectively.

4.      The Journal of American Medical Association has recently published a report showing that dark chocolate reduces blood pressure. It is thought to be due to the caffeine content and anti-inflammatory properties.

5.      Eating chocolate releases endorphins. Endorphins are those wonderful little hormones that make you feel good. Every wonder why happy people have glowing skin? It’s those endorphins…they release powerful anti-aging chemicals into the blood.

September 24, 2012 by