Browsing Tag

exfoliate

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Double What?

Some of you may be familiar with or heard of the double cleanse. This isn’t an OCD bathing ritual; it’s an important step in the care and cleansing of your skin, namely your face of course.

The purpose or ideology behind the double cleanse is that you are using an initial cleanse, usually done with an oil based product, to actual break down makeup and debris (visible or not) from the surface of the skin. After the first cleanse is complete you move on to the second cleanse where you are able to massage with the cleanser to remove any impurities from deeper within the pores.

Let’s fine tune the steps and make some suggestions….

Some products here at the Skintourage that we find effective are:

  • Circadia: Vitamin Veil
  • Wheat germ oil
  • Shu Uemura cleansing oils
  • Pur minerals : Mineral Melt
  • Coconut oil
  • DHC: Deep Cleansing Oil

This process is done in the evening to prepare the skin for its detoxing and repairing stages done during sleep. In the morning using only your cleanser will suffice. To begin the double cleanse you will start with dry hands and dry face. Emulsify dime size amount of the oil in your hands and begin to massage onto face. Immediately you will notice all makeup begin to break down. Unless you want to people to think you’ve gone mad by rubbing your makeup all over your face, this should be done in private. Once you feel that all makeup is broken down you then can remove oil and residue with a damp or dry cloth.

  • I know most of you are cringing at the thought of oils on your face, especially if you are oily. Rest assured that this will not cause your skin to become more oily, and should assist in the control of breakouts, not cause more.

Now that all makeup is removed you are able to start with the cleanser of choice for your skins needs. Keep in mind that cleansers, much like shampoo are on the skin for a very short uneventful amount of time. To short of a time to remove any impurities the way most people use them. Be sure to use a mild cleanser, if most cleansers do anything its strip any moisture and natural oils from your skin. That equals irritation, dryness and in some cases overproduction of sebum (oils), none of which anyone wants. Choose your cleanser carefully. The tight, dry or itchy feeling after you cleanse is not a good sign.

When properly cleansing the skin you need to apply a small amount of cleanser and emulsify in hands. The face should be slightly damp as well as the hands as you begin to massage and knead the skin. No pulling tugging or stretching, this is slow and gentle. You are kneading the skin to help purge the pores. Don’t forget the neck, and even décolleté. This cleaning process should last anywhere from 1- 3 minutes. Rinse skin with hands or cloth. Follow with toner to remove any remaining residue. Optional to follow with facial scrub as recommended, then be sure to apply all necessary treatments and moisturizers.

This may seem over the top, extreme or time consuming, but trust me your skin will thank you for it. Plus you’ll thank yourself when receive complements on your glowing skin!

December 10, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Rosacea

By Marissa Mitchell, Esthetics Student

Everyone has their quirky characteristics; some people snort when they laugh, some people giggle when they are nervous, and some people hiccups when they are excited.  As for me, my face turns red and splotchy for a page-long list of reasons.  Before I learned about what Rosacea was, I just thought I had really weird, hyper sensitive skin and anyone I met would get my usual disclaimer: “My skin is really sensitive, if I go out in the sun, eat something spicy, or drink alcohol I get these really awesome splotches on my face.”   I often tried to make light of my skin condition, because I was, (and still am), self-conscious about it and felt I needed to address it before someone else did–which is even worse.  I often continued my self-deprecating rant with: “Just wanted you to know that I’m okay, I’m not having an allergic reaction- I was just blessed with bizarre skin; one of the many joys of being me!”

Once I learned about what Rosacea was it was like a light-bulb went off for me; suddenly it all made sense!  There was a clinical name and a diagnosis for my hyper-reactive, hyper-sensitive skin and it was called Rosacea.  The first thing I learned about Rosacea, was that I meet the criteria of who it commonly affects to a “T”: I am over 30, half Scandinavian, have relatives who have it, and I’m very fair-skinned.  Rosacea is essentially a non-contagious, chronic, inflammatory skin condition which causes the blood vessels in the face to dilate, in varying degrees.  There are several levels of Rosacea from mild, (my case), to severe.  Left untreated, it can become disfiguring.  Interestingly, doctors have not determined conclusively what causes Rosacea, nor is there a cure for it.  Common visual characteristics of Rosacea include:

  1. Flushing or blushing easily
  2. Redness, especially in the cheek, chin and nose area
  3. Telangiectasia (tiny blood vessels) on the face
  4. A red nose
  5. Acne-like skin that may ooze or crust

In addition, there are some common triggers, which can cause Rosacea flare-ups. Although my Rosacea is mild, it is triggered by everything listed.  By avoiding or being aware of triggers someone who suffers from Rosacea can reduce inflammation which is important because recurring inflammation can lead to more severe Rosacea which includes permanent redness and broken capillaries.  Common Rosacea triggers include:

  1. Sun exposure
  2. Temperature and weather
  3. Emotional distress
  4. Spicy food/ Hot food
  5. Strenuous activity
  6. Caffiene
  1. Some citrus fruits
  2. Foods high in histamine such as eggplant, spinach, vinegar, and soy sauce
  3. Alcohol, especially red wine

Learning more about Rosacea helped me accomplish several things which will help me in my future as an esthetician: first of all I have compassion and understanding for anyone who happens to have it, like I do, because it is not fun.  Secondly, I understand what Rosacea is so I can educate my clients on: what triggers to avoid, and ways to treat their skin to reduce inflammation such as using products meant for sensitive skin, avoiding harsh abrasives, using lukewarm water, and always wearing sunscreen.  Most importantly I can recognize it when I see it so I can make recommendations to my clients to see a dermatologist if their Rosacea is severe.  On a personal note, learning that Rosacea affects an estimated 16 million Americans, makes me feel like less of a weirdo, and I find that information comforting.

October 17, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Anti-Everything DIY Mask

By: Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor

This mask is definitely one of my favorite summer face treats. It’s incredibly hydrating, soothing, and it wards off acne. And if you’re anything like me, your skin has just about had it with the dreadful mix of humidity, sun and pollutants… and the zits popping up are proof. But rest assured, a few treatments of the popular oatmeal, honey and yogurt mask + the secret anti-aging and anti-acne ingredient, strawberries! – and your skin will be rejuvenated for another month left to melt in the heat.

But this mask isn’t simply reserved for the troubled complexion. It happens to be the ideal treatment post sun, especially if you have (gasp!) unintentionally burned your skin. I have offered up this exact recipe to many of my friends who have had tanning mishaps and, within days, their skin is back to normal, burn be gone, no permanent damage (thanks largely to the incredible benefits of organic yogurt).

What You’ll Need:

Quaker Oats rolled oats

Organic honey

Organic yogurt – plain

3 Strawberries

Benefits of the Ingredients:

Oatmeal is a natural, gentle exfoliator. It also soothes a variety of itchy skin conditions like eczema and insect bites by relieving dryness. Overall, oatmeal is a natural healer.

Honey binds moisture into the skin and is full of antioxidants so it is wonderful for sun damage. It’s also good for acne because it helps to absorb impurities and dirt.

Yogurt contains enzymes and lactic acid to hydrate and soothe. It can also even the skin tone.

Strawberries are high in Vitamin C, the benefits include lightening, tightening and brightening the complexion. Ideal for acne-prone skin as strawberries are a natural source of AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), a natural exfoliator.

Instructions:

Blend 1/4 cup of dry rolled oats until the consistency is that of powder. Pour into a bowl. Add 3 tbls of organic yogurt and 2 tbls of honey and mix. Honey may need to be submerged into hot water to make it more malleable.

*If you choose to use strawberries, put them into a blender and mince. Add into the mix (including the juice) and stir well. If the consistency becomes too watery, add more oats.

Let the mixture stand for 10-15 minutes so that the oats are well coated in the moisturizing ingredients of honey and yogurt. Apply to clean skin. Keep on for 10-20 min and then rinse off.

Extras:

Try using just rolled oats – unblended – and water as a light exfoliater and or simply slather on yogurt as a natural healer/ soother, especially good for a sunburn! You can alternate between all three: wash, mask and pure yogurt soother.

September 10, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Esthetics

“Bacne” vs. the Swimsuit

Summer is just around the corner and we need to clear up a few things about bacne.  We’ve been so focused on our faces this winter and spring that we neglected our backs and now they are speaking out by breaking out.

The Skintourage is here to give you a few pointers on getting rid of and keeping away that unwanted “BACNE”.

Cleanse:  You will want a frangrance-free and anti-bacterial cleanser.  Many people over-cleanse the skin with harsh soaps and use vigorous scrubbing tools and products. The use of Alkaline-based surfactants or soaps not only rob skin of moisture, but also provide a bacteria-loving environment. This can also exacerbate the breakouts and slow down the healing process.

Tone: Spritz your back with an oil- and bacteria-controlling toner. Many bacne sufferers will try mentholated and alcohol astringents, which provide a cooling sensation, however in most cases these are SD alcohol-based, which strips the skin of lipids, causing the skin to over-produce oil. Look for alcohol-free toners in “smart trigger” packaging that allow for easy spritzing over your back.

Exfoliate gently: Many people use loofahs and brushes to try and rid the skin of back acne, which only worsens the condition. The use of such tools causes micro-lacerations in the skin, making it once again a hospitable environment for bacteria to breed and grow. A gentle fragrance-free scrub should be used instead. Lightly massage it over the area and rinse off.

Don’t squeeze and pick: Seek out the help of a licensed esthetician for  a back treatment to clear impactions, gently exfoliate and moisturize appropriately.

And here are a few sneaky ways to prevent bacne in the first place:
1. Avoid waxy hair products that may come into contact with the skin on your back.
2. Wear cotton clothing versus synthetic fibers, which can trap oil and dead cells.
3. Pillowcases should be changed at least every other day and sheets twice a week. Avoid using fabric softeners on bed linens as they may cause a breakout.
4. Avoid tanning beds. Many believe that this will speed up the healing of breakouts; however, the effects are only temporary. UV exposure increases cell production, causing more breakouts.

June 11, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Nail Technician

Toe Nibbles

What is a fish pedicure?

A fish pedicure, also known as a fish spa, involves patrons dipping their feet in a tub of water filled with small fish called Garra rufa. Garra rufa are sometimes referred to as “doctor fish” because they eat away dead skin found on peoples’ feet, leaving newer skin exposed. This is not a traditional pedicure in the sense that we think. No scrubs, massaging, toenail care etc… The service consists of a simple tank or basin with about 100 fish inside that the client places their feet into. Prices are usually around $35 for about a 15 min. session. Not to relaxing if you ask me.

Garra rufa are native to the Middle East, where they have been used as a medical treatment for individuals with skin diseases, like psoriasis. One study has illustrated the effectiveness of fish pedicures in the treatment of psoriasis; however, this treatment was performed in a controlled setting at a medical university in Austria, not at a nail salon . CDC is not aware of any published reports on illnesses resulting from fish pedicures. Nail salon foot baths, however, have caused outbreaks of nontuberculous mycobacterial infections that left infected pedicure customers with boils and scars.

Why have some states banned the use of fish pedicures?

An entrepreneur named John Ho has been credited with bringing the trend to his salon in Virginia called Yvonne’s Day Spa. He said he wanted to come up with something unique while finding a replacement for pedicures that use razors to scrape off dead skin. The razors have fallen out of favor with state regulators because of concerns about whether they’re sanitary. There are also franchise salons available in Delaware, Maryland, Missouri, as well as Virginia.

Each state has the authority to ban fish pedicures. At least 14 states, including Texas, Oklahoma and Florida, have outlawed  them. Virginia doesn’t see a problem. Plus, they have no jurisdiction over skin, unless it’s a face. Ohio permitted the fish pedicures after a review of the regulation and service details.

Most of the bans are based on at least one of the following reasons:

  • The fish pedicure tubs cannot be sufficiently cleaned between customers when the fish are present.
  • The fish themselves cannot be disinfected or sanitized between customers. Due to the cost of the fish, salon owners are likely to use the same fish multiple times with different customers, which increases the risk of spreading infection.
  • Chinese Chinchin, another species of fish that is often mislabeled as Garra rufa and used in fish pedicures, grows teeth and can draw blood, increasing the risk of infection.
  • According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Garra rufa could pose a threat to native plant and animal life if released into the wild because the fish is not native to the United States.
  • Fish pedicures do not meet the legal definition of a pedicure.
  • Regulations specifying that fish at a salon must be contained in an aquarium.
  • The fish must be starved to eat skin, they live in an environment free of a food source, which might be considered animal cruelty.
A special thanks to Kent Berry, Clary Sage Barista Instructor, for trying a Fish Pedicure, in Mexico, and documenting the experience for us to share with everyone.
May 23, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

You asked–We answered

As skin care professionals, the most common question we all seem to get asked is…What products do you use?  Our skintourage bloggers put together a list of our top favorite “must have” products. Make sure to let us know what your must have products are! We want to hear from you.

Christen Brummett, Esthetics Arts Department Head:

Smashbox Makeup Primer-As someone with oily skin, I tend to shed makeup very quickly so having a makeup primer is a must if I plan to have makeup on my face for more than 2-3 hours.  I love Smashbox’s Primer because it is super lightweight and silky feeling (due to all the silicone); it doesn’t break my face out and keeps my makeup on all day.

Skin Ceuticals CE Ferulic Acid-This stuff is amazing!  The combination of Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid provides a power pack punch of antioxidant protection.  This is one of the few products I have used that I really saw results in my skin.

Dermalogica’s PreCleanse– Used before your normal cleanser; it gets all the makeup off and smells amazing.  Not to mention, it is a fabulous brush cleanser!

April Genshaw, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:

NYX Milk Eye Pencil-Perfect color base to make eyeshadow colors pop.  I still use over a regular eye primer.

Coconut Oil-Fabulous for removing makeup before cleansing, hydrating skin treatment and cortex strengthening hair treatment.

Agadir Hair Spritz-Dual Purpose thermal iron enhancing spray, firm hold hair spritz.

Lip Balm-I’ve yet to find a favorite, but I always have to have something.

Lisa Johnson, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:

Temptu Airbrush Foundation-it’s easy to apply, soft natural matte finish and lasts all day long without touching up.

Mirabella Lip Definer in Clear-Gives you the protection from bleeding and feathering lipstick without the worry of the “ring around the lips” look when the lipstick fades off.

Lime Crime Lipstick (any color)-Has amazing color that lasts all day without looking dry or cracked.  The color is vibrant and it comes in many unusual shades.

Circadia Vitamin C Serum-Not heavy and dries quick.  Helps with my aging skin and gives me a nice glow.  It’s my “must have” product.

Moroccan Oil – My only must have for my hair.  It cuts my blow dry time in half and helps repair any damage to my hair and leaves my hair soft and tangle free all day. It doesn’t weight my hair down or make it oily like many other products.

Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor:

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20-It’s sheer and lightweight with a hint of color.  I get that perfect healthy looking glow.  Plus, I get my daily dose of sunscreen.

Urban Decay’s 24/7 Concealer Pencil-Perfect for hiding those dark circles and blemishes.  It’s a creamy formula that dries matte and stays put.

Therametics Lip Balm-“Heaven on a stick!”  An anti-aging lip balm that soothes and repairs dry chapped lips.

Hempz Body Moisturizer-100% pure natural hemp seed oil along with Vitamins A, C and E help to give your body a dramatic dose of hydration.

Mona Green, Esthetics Instructor:

Circadia Honey Cleanser-A micro-exfoliating cleanser that is gentle enough to use every day, without disturbing the protective lipid barrier.

Circadia Vitamin C-Heal and calms the skin while neutralizing free radicals.  It prevents collagen deterioration while restoring firmness, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smoothing uneven texture.

Circadia Night Time Repair-Encourages cell turnover, boosts radiance, increases elasticity and enhances the skin’s natural repair system.

Jennifer Hubbard, Nail Technician Instructor:

Green Stuff-My wonderful makeup remover and I use it to shave with.

Fake Bake-I love the look of a beautiful tan but don’t want to expose myself to the UV rays of a tanning bed.

Circadia Mandiclear Peel with Vitamin A Accelerator-This is my favorite peel.  I love the way my skin looks and feels afterwards.  It glows and feels a lot tighter.

Enjoy Smooth and Shine Serum-This is the only serum that I have found that keeps my hair shiny and smooth without leaving the feeling of heavy oily hair.

Coconut Oil-This is the only product that will penetrate into the hairs cortex.  This doesn’t leave your hair with the heavy oily feeling that other products can.

Check out this website to see how you can become a skin care professional too!

May 7, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology

Can You Be Addicted To Lip Balm?

By April Genshaw, Master Instructor

I’ve come across this question several times over the years, and have fully declared that I myself would attest to being addicted. At the age of 18 I lost my lip balm at a friends house one night  and actually asked  a gas station attendant if he could cover what I was short so that I could buy a new one. Now that is desperation!

Symptoms could include:
*applying heavy layers of balm before bed
*buying multiply tubes at a time; i.e. hoarding different types in your purse or car
*applying multiple times a day (something must always be covering the lip)
*having a tube in pretty much every room of your house

If any of these describe you, you aren’t alone.There is even a website www.lipbalmanonymous.com
In all seriousness there is science behind this addiction. Lets make this simple…….

Lips are Skin. Skin is complex and has layers. The top layer (stratum corneum) is mostly dead/dehydrated cells. As they die they should naturally flake away. When the cells flake away they send a signal to a deeper layer that will produce new plump cells (basal layer). This process is referred to as cellular turnover, which also slows down as you age. When you use lip balm or lip products it locks in moisture creating a barrier. The lips stay hydrated, but since not as many cells are sloughing away, the basal cell doesn’t get the signal for new cells.

Now, when the balm isn’t present, and the lips are exposed, they suddenly are dried out. The basal layer then is in overdrive trying to catch up. But then…. your lips are dry, so of course, more lip balm! The basal layers gets the “Never mind we’re fine signal” and it’s a cycle. We have trained our lips to rely on this hydrating protective barrier. Decide for yourself if you’re addicted or wanting to continue with your addiction. I personally will continue. I just love the feeling of lip balm/lipstick or lipgloss.  It just makes me Happy! We all have those double lipgloss days.

April 16, 2012 by
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology

Destination to Relaxation

By April Genshaw

Ok Lassies! If you are like me you love relaxing in a wonderfully warm bath all jazzed up with goodies for your skin and your peace of mind. At this time of year it is crucial to maintain the hydration levels of your skin, both internally and externally. One great way is to use natural humectants applied topically to supply and maintain those levels. What better and fun way to do this than by creating for yourself a tropics inspired bath night! So…… let’s waste no time talking about it! You need to get these things ready for your destination to relaxation (and a beautifully hydrated body).

Supplies Needed:

1 can coconut milk; 2 if you want a healthy drink during your bath

½ c. baking soda

1 grapefruit (you will only need the ends for the bath; enjoy eating the rest)

brown sugar

coconut oil

honey

plastic cap(optional)

candles for ambiance

cabana boy(if one’s willing)

relaxation/tropical music; ooooo…….ocean wave sounds!

Prepare Supplies:

*Cut ends from grapefruit so that it makes 2 half circles

*Portion out desired amount of brown sugar for body scrub

*Bath Soak: Combine coconut milk, baking soda and 4tbsp. coconut oil; this can be mixed  together beforehand or in bath itself.

*After Bath Moisturizer: Combine 1 part honey to 2 parts coconut oil; make desired amount.

*Set up your cabana retreat(aka bathroom)

Show Time: these steps can be completed by you or your cabana boy!

* Draw bath water and add soak

* During bath place small amount of brown sugar on ends of grapefruits. Hold the grapefruit in the palm of your hand. Buff in circular motions starting at the feet and working upwards toward the heart. Reapply sugar as needed using one grapefruit for the legs and posterior areas, and the other for torso and arms.

* Optional Step: Apply small amounts of after bath moisturizer to scalp and hair, clip up and bag in plastic cap. Thoroughly rinse after bath or next day, may need a small amount of shampoo depending on the amount unabsorbed.

* After bath apply moisturizer to entire body. Start at feet and work towards the heart. Allow to absorb before dressing.

After this treatment you should feel completely hydrated and relaxed, and with these easy steps you can have a tropical getaway anytime you like. Hope you enjoyed!

February 13, 2012 by