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The Skintourage

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Double What?

Some of you may be familiar with or heard of the double cleanse. This isn’t an OCD bathing ritual; it’s an important step in the care and cleansing of your skin, namely your face of course.

The purpose or ideology behind the double cleanse is that you are using an initial cleanse, usually done with an oil based product, to actual break down makeup and debris (visible or not) from the surface of the skin. After the first cleanse is complete you move on to the second cleanse where you are able to massage with the cleanser to remove any impurities from deeper within the pores.

Let’s fine tune the steps and make some suggestions….

Some products here at the Skintourage that we find effective are:

  • Circadia: Vitamin Veil
  • Wheat germ oil
  • Shu Uemura cleansing oils
  • Pur minerals : Mineral Melt
  • Coconut oil
  • DHC: Deep Cleansing Oil

This process is done in the evening to prepare the skin for its detoxing and repairing stages done during sleep. In the morning using only your cleanser will suffice. To begin the double cleanse you will start with dry hands and dry face. Emulsify dime size amount of the oil in your hands and begin to massage onto face. Immediately you will notice all makeup begin to break down. Unless you want to people to think you’ve gone mad by rubbing your makeup all over your face, this should be done in private. Once you feel that all makeup is broken down you then can remove oil and residue with a damp or dry cloth.

  • I know most of you are cringing at the thought of oils on your face, especially if you are oily. Rest assured that this will not cause your skin to become more oily, and should assist in the control of breakouts, not cause more.

Now that all makeup is removed you are able to start with the cleanser of choice for your skins needs. Keep in mind that cleansers, much like shampoo are on the skin for a very short uneventful amount of time. To short of a time to remove any impurities the way most people use them. Be sure to use a mild cleanser, if most cleansers do anything its strip any moisture and natural oils from your skin. That equals irritation, dryness and in some cases overproduction of sebum (oils), none of which anyone wants. Choose your cleanser carefully. The tight, dry or itchy feeling after you cleanse is not a good sign.

When properly cleansing the skin you need to apply a small amount of cleanser and emulsify in hands. The face should be slightly damp as well as the hands as you begin to massage and knead the skin. No pulling tugging or stretching, this is slow and gentle. You are kneading the skin to help purge the pores. Don’t forget the neck, and even décolleté. This cleaning process should last anywhere from 1- 3 minutes. Rinse skin with hands or cloth. Follow with toner to remove any remaining residue. Optional to follow with facial scrub as recommended, then be sure to apply all necessary treatments and moisturizers.

This may seem over the top, extreme or time consuming, but trust me your skin will thank you for it. Plus you’ll thank yourself when receive complements on your glowing skin!

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

Fall 2012 Makeup Trends

By: Lisa Johnson, Esthetics Instructor

Just as the seasons change, so do our trends for makeup.  This fall is no exception.  From vampy goth looks to natural fresh skin, this fall is all about the artistic side of makeup.  Some of the looks are bold but don’t forget that the classic looks are timeless and always in style.

Here are a few of the most popular looks for fall 2012:

FACE

Fall faces are in one word “flawless”.  Skin should be natural but polished.  The look is one of less, but still perfection.  It should be slightly contoured, keeping very monochromatic in color.  Fresh skin is in!!! (MUA,  Amber Bowen)

CHEEKS

This fall cheeks are all about a flush of color!  Rosy cheeks are back.  Just a bit of color on the apples of the cheeks, not the regular contoured blush.

EYE SHADOW

Eyes are very exciting for the fall. Can we say, Drama Drama Drama?  Lots of amazing color!  Green, gray, and bright blues are the go to colors.  Multi toned with accents of gold make eye shadow a fun way to spice up a look. (MUA, Evony Wells)

If eye color isn’t your cup of tea, you are in luck!  Smokey browns are just as in style!  Any hue is acceptable from brown to khaki.  The key is to make sure that the color is blurred out to give it that smokey appearance. (MUA, Morgan Black)

EYE LINER

Eyeliner is graphic this fall, bold in shape and in color.  Bright blues, greens, and traditional black are the colors seen most on the runway.  Liner is angled with sharp lines and big exaggerated curves.  It’s all about artistic looks. (MUA, Noelia Boyd, and Morgan Black)

MASCARA

Traditional mascara is always in style.  This fall bright blue and green mascara can also be seen to give a pop of color to even a soft makeup look.

BROWS –

Brows are groomed and tamed.  Using a pencil and shadow to add color makes any brow stand out.  To keep the brows in place it is all about the brow gel. (MUA, Murrell Collins)

LIPS

Lips are a major focal point this fall.  Mulberry, Black Cherry, and Deep Plum are the rage.  This vampire inspired look is beautiful, but don’t forget to add blush so you don’t feel and look washed out.  It’s a powerful look and should only be worn by the daring. (MUA, Murrell Collins)


If the vampy look isn’t your thing, red is always a great substitute.  Matte and glossy reds can make a bold statement without the washed out look you can get from the deep violets. (MUA, Evony Wells)

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

10 Reasons We’re Cuckoo For Coconut Oil

By Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor

This nut may fall close to the tree but its powers reach far beyond the sand.  Smear it, cook with it, eat it – there’s almost nothing it can’t do.  We’re talking rich, raw, pure virgin coconut oil – the godly grease that seems to be the hottest thing to drop lately.  From the outside in and back again, here are 10 ways to indulge in this tropical multi-tasker:

  1. Your new favorite moisturizer Comparable to that of mineral oil, coconut oil is a safe, effective moisturizer for all skin types and offers up to 20% UV protection (the actual SPF value is still up for debate so be sure to protect yourself accordingly).
  2. A split-end hair treatment Ladies, we’re talking natural nutrition for your hair and for the bros with fros, you could give it a go too.  Next time your frays are feeling fried, work a bit of coconut oil through your hair to spruce up those dead ends (warning: a little goes a long way!).  Apply before bedtime and wash it out in the morning.  You’ll be ready to brave your day with soft locks straight from the tropics.
  3. A natural eye-makeup remover Smear a little bit of coconut oil on a cotton ball and eye makeup be gone!  It even works on waterproof mascara after those long days at the beach.  Play on sun lovers!
  4. A kitchen staple Coconut oil won’t burn thanks to its high smoke and boiling point, making it a staple in the kitchen.  It can be used to grease pans (and wooden cutting boards too), to cook with and even to replace butter in your baking at a 1-to-1 ratio (it’s a game changer for vegan/gluten-free baking).
  5. A natural bug repellent Fight off the little fellas by mixing coconut oil with peppermint oil extract.  Your skin will thank you; the bugs won’t.
  6. A twist on a ‘pop’ular snack Mix with butter and toss on your popcorn for a (mostly) healthy snack.  Ryan Gosling movie marathon, here we come!
  7. Lip balm Keep your pucker soft and supple by rubbing a little coconut oil onto your lips.  It works as a softening agent and even provides a little bit of sun protection.
  8. A natural healing agent Applying coconut oil to scrapes and cuts will help create a shield over the wound and protect it from dust, bacteria and viruses.  On bruises the oil speeds up the healing process by repairing damaged tissues and on bug bites it keeps itching at bay.
  9. A fitness and energy boost A spoonful of coconut oil won’t necessarily help the medicine go down (then again it probably could do that tot) but it does serve as a great endurance pick-me-up for athletes and has also been prove to fire up your metabolism.
  10. Shaving cream Coconut oil lessens irritation on the face and neck, detoxifies skin as you shave, and moisturizes all at once.  Also, the oil makes it easier and faster to clear razor blades as they are used.
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Scar Free: Extractions Done Right

By Jennifer Hubbard, Esthetics and Nails Instructor

Everyone gets those nasty little blackheads or whiteheads that come up. You push and squeeze to try to get all that built in dirt out and all that happens is half of it comes out and your left with a sore area and possibly a scar. Well this blog will teach you how to properly extract them without leaving that scar.

The first thing you want to do before any extractions is take a warm shower or steam your face. You can best see blackheads and whiteheads right after this because the steam helps open up your pores. Make sure the lighting is good and use gloves when extracting.

There are 3 different ways to properly extract. You can use Q-tips, cotton/gauze or an extracting tool. All of these are used by professionals and if used correctly will help you avoid those dreadful scars.

Q-tips: When using Q-tips to extract you want to make sure you are wearing gloves. You will use 2 Q-tips and place one on each side of the area needed to be extracted, and roll the Q-tips down and then up towards the blackhead. Wipe off the area with the Q-tip and throw away then wipe the area with a toner best suited for their skin type.

Cotton/Gauze: Make sure you are using gloves and wrap a piece of gauze or cotton around your index fingers and follow the same procedure for Q-tips, using your index fingers.

Extracting Tool: With this tool you will place the hole of the extractor over the area to be extracted. Press down with the extracter and give it a little wiggle. Using this procedure you should be able to remove the debris without leaving any scars.

Now you can go and remove those random, stubborn blackheads and help your clients skin become more beautiful.

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Rosacea

By Marissa Mitchell, Esthetics Student

Everyone has their quirky characteristics; some people snort when they laugh, some people giggle when they are nervous, and some people hiccups when they are excited.  As for me, my face turns red and splotchy for a page-long list of reasons.  Before I learned about what Rosacea was, I just thought I had really weird, hyper sensitive skin and anyone I met would get my usual disclaimer: “My skin is really sensitive, if I go out in the sun, eat something spicy, or drink alcohol I get these really awesome splotches on my face.”   I often tried to make light of my skin condition, because I was, (and still am), self-conscious about it and felt I needed to address it before someone else did–which is even worse.  I often continued my self-deprecating rant with: “Just wanted you to know that I’m okay, I’m not having an allergic reaction- I was just blessed with bizarre skin; one of the many joys of being me!”

Once I learned about what Rosacea was it was like a light-bulb went off for me; suddenly it all made sense!  There was a clinical name and a diagnosis for my hyper-reactive, hyper-sensitive skin and it was called Rosacea.  The first thing I learned about Rosacea, was that I meet the criteria of who it commonly affects to a “T”: I am over 30, half Scandinavian, have relatives who have it, and I’m very fair-skinned.  Rosacea is essentially a non-contagious, chronic, inflammatory skin condition which causes the blood vessels in the face to dilate, in varying degrees.  There are several levels of Rosacea from mild, (my case), to severe.  Left untreated, it can become disfiguring.  Interestingly, doctors have not determined conclusively what causes Rosacea, nor is there a cure for it.  Common visual characteristics of Rosacea include:

  1. Flushing or blushing easily
  2. Redness, especially in the cheek, chin and nose area
  3. Telangiectasia (tiny blood vessels) on the face
  4. A red nose
  5. Acne-like skin that may ooze or crust

In addition, there are some common triggers, which can cause Rosacea flare-ups. Although my Rosacea is mild, it is triggered by everything listed.  By avoiding or being aware of triggers someone who suffers from Rosacea can reduce inflammation which is important because recurring inflammation can lead to more severe Rosacea which includes permanent redness and broken capillaries.  Common Rosacea triggers include:

  1. Sun exposure
  2. Temperature and weather
  3. Emotional distress
  4. Spicy food/ Hot food
  5. Strenuous activity
  6. Caffiene
  1. Some citrus fruits
  2. Foods high in histamine such as eggplant, spinach, vinegar, and soy sauce
  3. Alcohol, especially red wine

Learning more about Rosacea helped me accomplish several things which will help me in my future as an esthetician: first of all I have compassion and understanding for anyone who happens to have it, like I do, because it is not fun.  Secondly, I understand what Rosacea is so I can educate my clients on: what triggers to avoid, and ways to treat their skin to reduce inflammation such as using products meant for sensitive skin, avoiding harsh abrasives, using lukewarm water, and always wearing sunscreen.  Most importantly I can recognize it when I see it so I can make recommendations to my clients to see a dermatologist if their Rosacea is severe.  On a personal note, learning that Rosacea affects an estimated 16 million Americans, makes me feel like less of a weirdo, and I find that information comforting.

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Brow Building Basics

So…… Let’s talk about eyebrow color. A frequent question I am asked is “What color should I use to fill in my eyebrows?” There are several rules to follow, and then as always in beauty the ways to break them. Let’s break it down by hair color.
Black/darkest brown tones: Filling in eyebrows true black can look amazing if done right (back to that in a moment), but the easiest or most desired option is to use a dark brown color. Choices of application being powder, pencil, or gels (optional). The main thing to look at in the color is that there isn’t much red in the brown.  Reddish browns look very off on the eyebrows.  You are looking for neutral tones, not going to warm or cool in the underlying tonalities. If you decide to go for the black, make sure your color is black-black. If the color is off the brows will look smudgy and grayish, not pretty.
Medium brown w/ or w/out highlights: This type of hair color needs to stick with again neutral brown, this time just a little lighter. Brows tend to look better darker than lighter. They are the face framers; they define the eye, and give expression to the face. Everyone should examine what their eyebrows are doing right now! Avoid the reddish undertone for these brows as well.
Light brown, dark blonde: The key color word for this hair is taupe. Taupe colors are your best friend. Again, lean to the darker side. If they are to light they will look gray and powdery. We are trying to match the darker hair, so highlights are somewhat disregarded.
Light to pale blondes:  Key color here again is taupe. Some blonde colors are to golden or even to red. These could be ok of you are of the strawberry blonde variety or you have put in highlights and/or lowlights of the red or copper family, but they are still a little weak or off for my taste. I still recommend taupe.
Gray/Salt & Pepper: You guessed it, Taupe. By far the most flattering color for gray, salt & pepper or white hair. These again should not be to warm or gray.
Red Head: Now just because you’re red doesn’t mean go all out lipliner red, oh wait, I’ve done that. That’s for later…Seriously though, find a neutral reddish color on the darker side of the hair color. or go with the neutral brown or darker taupe.
Aside from the mentioned above you can go all out with bright color, glitter, or the complete opposite of your hair color ie. Dark hair light brows, light hair dark brows. Whatever you feel comfortable with. Using gel brow color or colored mascaras can slightly alter the color to suit your needs and hold the hair in place.

Viola!!

Beautiful brows

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Anti-Everything DIY Mask

By: Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor

This mask is definitely one of my favorite summer face treats. It’s incredibly hydrating, soothing, and it wards off acne. And if you’re anything like me, your skin has just about had it with the dreadful mix of humidity, sun and pollutants… and the zits popping up are proof. But rest assured, a few treatments of the popular oatmeal, honey and yogurt mask + the secret anti-aging and anti-acne ingredient, strawberries! – and your skin will be rejuvenated for another month left to melt in the heat.

But this mask isn’t simply reserved for the troubled complexion. It happens to be the ideal treatment post sun, especially if you have (gasp!) unintentionally burned your skin. I have offered up this exact recipe to many of my friends who have had tanning mishaps and, within days, their skin is back to normal, burn be gone, no permanent damage (thanks largely to the incredible benefits of organic yogurt).

What You’ll Need:

Quaker Oats rolled oats

Organic honey

Organic yogurt – plain

3 Strawberries

Benefits of the Ingredients:

Oatmeal is a natural, gentle exfoliator. It also soothes a variety of itchy skin conditions like eczema and insect bites by relieving dryness. Overall, oatmeal is a natural healer.

Honey binds moisture into the skin and is full of antioxidants so it is wonderful for sun damage. It’s also good for acne because it helps to absorb impurities and dirt.

Yogurt contains enzymes and lactic acid to hydrate and soothe. It can also even the skin tone.

Strawberries are high in Vitamin C, the benefits include lightening, tightening and brightening the complexion. Ideal for acne-prone skin as strawberries are a natural source of AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), a natural exfoliator.

Instructions:

Blend 1/4 cup of dry rolled oats until the consistency is that of powder. Pour into a bowl. Add 3 tbls of organic yogurt and 2 tbls of honey and mix. Honey may need to be submerged into hot water to make it more malleable.

*If you choose to use strawberries, put them into a blender and mince. Add into the mix (including the juice) and stir well. If the consistency becomes too watery, add more oats.

Let the mixture stand for 10-15 minutes so that the oats are well coated in the moisturizing ingredients of honey and yogurt. Apply to clean skin. Keep on for 10-20 min and then rinse off.

Extras:

Try using just rolled oats – unblended – and water as a light exfoliater and or simply slather on yogurt as a natural healer/ soother, especially good for a sunburn! You can alternate between all three: wash, mask and pure yogurt soother.

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Mosquito Bites: Home Remedies to stop the itch

By: Jennifer Hubbard, Esthetics and Nail Instructor

Ever had a pesky mosquito flying around you, land on you and then “OUCH” it happens, you’ve been bit?!?! The anticoagulant (a substance that prevents coagulation (clotting) of blood) helps mosquitoes while they feed. However, this injection of insect fluids is also the reason why mosquito bites itch. Along with the anticoagulant, the mosquito saliva will enter some of the insect’s own proteins and binding to the skin cells. As an immune response, histamines will be released, causing a swelling where the mosquito bite is located. With the release of histamines we all get an allergic reaction and feel an itch whenever we get bitten. This response is natural and is part of your body’s way of protecting itself. As the swelling grows the pressure on your nerve cells in that area increases. This increase in pressure gives that itchy feeling. Once that happens you search for some medication to try and stop the deadly itch, but you have none. Here are some great home remedies to try and the benefits of each:

Dampened Green Tea Bag

  • Place cold tea bag on the bite. This will help soothe the itch & compounds in the tea help

with inflammation.

Oatmeal Bath

  • Soothes the skin

Honey

  • Antibacterial ingredient, but be careful because it could attract other bugs

Scotch Tape

  • Helps keep you from itching

Aloe Vera

  • Anti-inflammatory properties that draw out the sting

Battery

  • Uses electric current to inactivate the bite. Wetting the battery enhances the conductivity so current goes through your skin

Preparation H

  • Reduces swelling, itching and inflammation

Rubbing Alcohol/Witch Hazel/Tea Tree Oil

  • Antiseptic properties, prevents bites from getting infected and stinging sensation distracts you from the itch

Baking Soda/Toothpaste

  • Dries to a paste which dries out the skin

Basil

  • Rub on inflammatory properties and repels mosquitoes

Clear Polish

  • Blocks the sensation of the itch

Aspirin

  • Contains acetyl salicylic acid for anti-inflammatory purposes

Listerine/Vicks Vapor Rub

  • Contains menthol to relieve itch
Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

If you can confess these words… I AM A BEAUTY JUNKIE

Then you will be very excited about my latest research venture. I tend to get stuck on a subject and research it to pieces. That sometimes includes emailing/calling or some may imply harassing a company to obtain information. I came across these “Beauty Sampling” or “Makeup of the Month” type programs that excited me to no end, so of course I needed to know who is the best . My research has led to the compiled list I will add shortly, as well as taking a turn into free sampling you can obtain from various companies. There were many other options that I came across besides the ones in the list including Indi companies, very specialized programs, and ones that are awesome but tormenting by not being available in the U.S. Generally the company has you fill out a questionnaire about yourself so that they can send a more customized selection for you. Most are monthly subscriptions or with options to skip a month, send as a gift or buy 3, 6 or 12months at a discount. Yeah!! I know

Here is what I came up with.

Good Reviews

  • Beauty Fix: Sent out quarterly $50
  • Beauty Army: Choose 6 deluxe samples from site $12
  • Birch Box: Seems to be the most popular $10
  • Pop Sugar: Newer program, full size products+bag $35
  • Glossy Box: 5 Travel sized products $21
  • Sample Society: Teamed with Allure(free sub. with membership) $15
  • Beauty Box 5: 4-5 deluxe samples monthly $12

Bad Reviews

  • Makeup Monthly $30
  • MyGlam $10

Natural Eco Friendly Boxes

  • Kara’s Way: $15
  • The Natural Beauty Box: $20
  • Eco Emi: $15
  • Blissmo: $19

Miscellaneous

  • The Love Club: Indi Box, variety of stuff(beauty, hair, music etc.)$12
  • Klutch Club: $18
  • Julep: Nail products $20
  • My Shade of Brown: Darker skintone specific products $10

Fabulous out of Country Boxes

  • Glymm: Canada only $12
  • Lust Have It: Australia, but opt. $10 extra to U.S. $15
  • She Said Beauty: UK only $14 roughly

Review Sites

  • Subscriptionboxes.com
  • Budget Friendly (youtube)

Free Sample Sites

  • My Abigail100(youtube)
  • Myfreeproductsamples.com
  • Beauty sage.com: Sample Box $5
  • Mysavings.com

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Facial Reflexology

Reflexology is an ancient healing therapy that utilizes energy “pathways” on the body. The idea behind reflexology is that if an organ is not working properly then issues will manifest in the pathways that coordinate with that organ. Reflexologists can manipulate and massage the coordinating points found on the feet, face, hands, and even face. Due to this, we can usually determine the underlying cause of a breakout due to the area of the face that is broken out.

Some of the most common areas of breakout areas include:

Forehead- indicates stress

Around mouth and chin- indicate hormonal issues

Underneath the cheekbone- coordinates with colon issues

See below for a more detailed description of the reflexology points on the face and how to assist in clearing those pathways.

The Skintourage would like to send a big “Congratulations” to one of our members, Christen Brummett.  This is Christen’s last official post.  She will, however,  continue to write  for the blog from time to time.  She will be attending OSU Medical School this fall.  The Skintourage is excited for Christen and wishes her the very best.  Look forward to reading some amazing medical related articles in the future.

GOOD LUCK CHRISTEN!!!