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makeup artistry

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Creating Deep Cuts with Molding Wax

By Lisa Johnson

This effect is for creating slit wrists or deep gashes in the face.  This effect is a bit more in depth than the rest, but if done correctly it can be the most effective special effect technique without the use of prosthetics.

You will need more products than in the last few blogs and it will take some patience, but the results are far better than just using latex or gelatin.

Using molding wax allows you to change the shape of the face or body part.  It also allows for creating a loss of depth in the skin, like a cut or a gash.  You can also put items in the skin when using wax, like staples, thread, or even glass.

You will need the following items to complete a cut:

Molding wax
Spatula
Spirit Gum
A sealing product such as Ben Nye’s Final Seal
Oil
Bruise or Trauma Wheel
Stage Blood or thick blood

Step one – Remove a small amount of wax from the container with a spatula.

Step two – Take the wax and roll it into a snake shape in the length you’d like the cut to be and lay it onto the skin.

Step three – Flatten out the wax and begin to blend the edges out onto the skin.

Step four – Make sure that all the edges are blended as thin as possible so that they look like part of the skin around it and are as smooth as possible.

Step five – You will now use your spatula or molding tool to slice down the middle of the cut.

Step six – Make sure that you pull the edges to the sides to open up the cut so the skin below shows through.

Step seven – Apply oil on the wax to smooth out any rough edges. Blot it dry and apply a sealing product to ensure that the wax will take color and stay together. You may also apply spirit gum around the edges to keep the wax on the skin (You don’t have to use the spirit gum if you don’t want to. It is there to add a extra hold to make the cut longer lasting.).

Step eight – After the seal is dry begin using your Bruise or Trauma Wheel to apply color starting with yellow around the edges.

Step nine – Follow the wheel clockwise from color to color. Make sure you put some red down in the opening of the cut to simulate raw skin or blood.

Step ten – Apply a thicker blood down in the incision. The thick blood will look like the blood is starting to coagulate.

Step 11 – Once the thick blood is in the incision, you can tap a liquid or gel blood around to make it appear like the blood has run all over the cut.

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

Fall 2012 Makeup Trends

By: Lisa Johnson, Esthetics Instructor

Just as the seasons change, so do our trends for makeup.  This fall is no exception.  From vampy goth looks to natural fresh skin, this fall is all about the artistic side of makeup.  Some of the looks are bold but don’t forget that the classic looks are timeless and always in style.

Here are a few of the most popular looks for fall 2012:

FACE

Fall faces are in one word “flawless”.  Skin should be natural but polished.  The look is one of less, but still perfection.  It should be slightly contoured, keeping very monochromatic in color.  Fresh skin is in!!! (MUA,  Amber Bowen)

CHEEKS

This fall cheeks are all about a flush of color!  Rosy cheeks are back.  Just a bit of color on the apples of the cheeks, not the regular contoured blush.

EYE SHADOW

Eyes are very exciting for the fall. Can we say, Drama Drama Drama?  Lots of amazing color!  Green, gray, and bright blues are the go to colors.  Multi toned with accents of gold make eye shadow a fun way to spice up a look. (MUA, Evony Wells)

If eye color isn’t your cup of tea, you are in luck!  Smokey browns are just as in style!  Any hue is acceptable from brown to khaki.  The key is to make sure that the color is blurred out to give it that smokey appearance. (MUA, Morgan Black)

EYE LINER

Eyeliner is graphic this fall, bold in shape and in color.  Bright blues, greens, and traditional black are the colors seen most on the runway.  Liner is angled with sharp lines and big exaggerated curves.  It’s all about artistic looks. (MUA, Noelia Boyd, and Morgan Black)

MASCARA

Traditional mascara is always in style.  This fall bright blue and green mascara can also be seen to give a pop of color to even a soft makeup look.

BROWS –

Brows are groomed and tamed.  Using a pencil and shadow to add color makes any brow stand out.  To keep the brows in place it is all about the brow gel. (MUA, Murrell Collins)

LIPS

Lips are a major focal point this fall.  Mulberry, Black Cherry, and Deep Plum are the rage.  This vampire inspired look is beautiful, but don’t forget to add blush so you don’t feel and look washed out.  It’s a powerful look and should only be worn by the daring. (MUA, Murrell Collins)


If the vampy look isn’t your thing, red is always a great substitute.  Matte and glossy reds can make a bold statement without the washed out look you can get from the deep violets. (MUA, Evony Wells)

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Brow Building Basics

So…… Let’s talk about eyebrow color. A frequent question I am asked is “What color should I use to fill in my eyebrows?” There are several rules to follow, and then as always in beauty the ways to break them. Let’s break it down by hair color.
Black/darkest brown tones: Filling in eyebrows true black can look amazing if done right (back to that in a moment), but the easiest or most desired option is to use a dark brown color. Choices of application being powder, pencil, or gels (optional). The main thing to look at in the color is that there isn’t much red in the brown.  Reddish browns look very off on the eyebrows.  You are looking for neutral tones, not going to warm or cool in the underlying tonalities. If you decide to go for the black, make sure your color is black-black. If the color is off the brows will look smudgy and grayish, not pretty.
Medium brown w/ or w/out highlights: This type of hair color needs to stick with again neutral brown, this time just a little lighter. Brows tend to look better darker than lighter. They are the face framers; they define the eye, and give expression to the face. Everyone should examine what their eyebrows are doing right now! Avoid the reddish undertone for these brows as well.
Light brown, dark blonde: The key color word for this hair is taupe. Taupe colors are your best friend. Again, lean to the darker side. If they are to light they will look gray and powdery. We are trying to match the darker hair, so highlights are somewhat disregarded.
Light to pale blondes:  Key color here again is taupe. Some blonde colors are to golden or even to red. These could be ok of you are of the strawberry blonde variety or you have put in highlights and/or lowlights of the red or copper family, but they are still a little weak or off for my taste. I still recommend taupe.
Gray/Salt & Pepper: You guessed it, Taupe. By far the most flattering color for gray, salt & pepper or white hair. These again should not be to warm or gray.
Red Head: Now just because you’re red doesn’t mean go all out lipliner red, oh wait, I’ve done that. That’s for later…Seriously though, find a neutral reddish color on the darker side of the hair color. or go with the neutral brown or darker taupe.
Aside from the mentioned above you can go all out with bright color, glitter, or the complete opposite of your hair color ie. Dark hair light brows, light hair dark brows. Whatever you feel comfortable with. Using gel brow color or colored mascaras can slightly alter the color to suit your needs and hold the hair in place.

Viola!!

Beautiful brows

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics

Color Theory

Color is a word that can spark many emotions.  It can affect our emotions, our ability to think, our ability to study or relax, and it can even stimulate or repress our appetite.  Color is a powerful thing in our lives.  But how many people really remember what colors represent or even how we get the colors we see every day?

We are going to take it back to elementary school art class.  Do you remember anything about the color wheel?  For some of us it may have been awhile since we have looked at the color wheel, but don’t worry today we will refresh our memories on a little color theory!

We will start from the beginning.  In the beginning there were three colors. These three colors are called the primary colors.  All color we see originates from these three colors.  They are red, yellow, and blue.  You can’t have any other colors without these three. They are the most important on the wheel.

Next on our color wheel is the secondary colors.  There are also three of these.  Secondary colors are made from two primary colors that are mixed together.  These colors are green, orange, and violet.  For example you know that yellow and blue mixed together in equal parts make green.


The last category is tertiary colors.  There are 6 of these colors.  They are made when one primary and one secondary color are mixed together in equal parts. These colors are red-orange, yellow-orange, blue-green, yellow-green, red-violet, and blue-violet.  The name says exactly what is mixed together.  To make red-orange you take equal parts of red and orange together.

Now that we are refreshed with the color wheel, let’s talk about a few words that you hear when people talk about color.

Complementary color- These colors are direct opposite on the color wheel (red and green; yellow and violet; orange and blue).  For example green and red are direct complements.  These colors tend to go well together and both colors can make an impact when wearing them.  Complementary colors cause each other to be the brightest they will ever appear when they are side by side. When layered on top of each other in equal parts, complementary colors neutralize or cancel each other out.

Monochromatic – Means one color.  It can include all that single color’s value, including tint, tone, and shade.  For example the darkest brown to the lightest beige.

Tint – tint is adding white to dilute a color

Shade- shade is adding black to lower or darken a color

Color can also have symbolism.  Each color can invoke feelings and can make someone that comes in contact with that color change their mood.  Here are a few colors and what they have grown to mean.

•          White – purity, innocence, peace

•          Black – sophistication, gloom, mystery

•          Gray – maturity, modesty, dignity

•          Red – love, passion, vigor

•          Yellow – youth, hope, and intellect

•          Blue – harmony, honor, dignity

•          Orange – danger, daring, energy

•          Green – nature, faith, stability

•          Purple – royalty, drama, wisdom

•          Brown – sensitivity and dependability

So why are we talking about color theory on a beauty blog? Knowing color theory is a vital tool for makeup artists, hair stylists and even fashion designers/stylists. Finding the right colors for your clients can make all the difference in the final look.

It is important to use colors that spark positive emotional responses for your client. For example, if your client hates the color yellow and thinks it looks bad on them, would it be a good idea to put yellow eyeshadow on them? Probably not. Just the eyeshadow color alone could cause the client to dislike the entire makeup application.

Also, using the color wheel properly can help enhance positive features and diminish negative features. Take the complementary colors for instance: if my client has blue eyes and I want them to be the focal point of the face, applying orange or an orange-based eyeshadow will cause the eyes to pop since orange and blue are complementary colors. On the other hand, applying a green concealer over a red blemish will neutralize or cancel out the red tone of the blemish making it easier to hide.

Next time you’re applying your makeup, think about the color wheel in order to ensure a successful, put-together makeup application.

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor, Nail Technician

You asked–We answered

As skin care professionals, the most common question we all seem to get asked is…What products do you use?  Our skintourage bloggers put together a list of our top favorite “must have” products. Make sure to let us know what your must have products are! We want to hear from you.

Christen Brummett, Esthetics Arts Department Head:

Smashbox Makeup Primer-As someone with oily skin, I tend to shed makeup very quickly so having a makeup primer is a must if I plan to have makeup on my face for more than 2-3 hours.  I love Smashbox’s Primer because it is super lightweight and silky feeling (due to all the silicone); it doesn’t break my face out and keeps my makeup on all day.

Skin Ceuticals CE Ferulic Acid-This stuff is amazing!  The combination of Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid provides a power pack punch of antioxidant protection.  This is one of the few products I have used that I really saw results in my skin.

Dermalogica’s PreCleanse– Used before your normal cleanser; it gets all the makeup off and smells amazing.  Not to mention, it is a fabulous brush cleanser!

April Genshaw, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:

NYX Milk Eye Pencil-Perfect color base to make eyeshadow colors pop.  I still use over a regular eye primer.

Coconut Oil-Fabulous for removing makeup before cleansing, hydrating skin treatment and cortex strengthening hair treatment.

Agadir Hair Spritz-Dual Purpose thermal iron enhancing spray, firm hold hair spritz.

Lip Balm-I’ve yet to find a favorite, but I always have to have something.

Lisa Johnson, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:

Temptu Airbrush Foundation-it’s easy to apply, soft natural matte finish and lasts all day long without touching up.

Mirabella Lip Definer in Clear-Gives you the protection from bleeding and feathering lipstick without the worry of the “ring around the lips” look when the lipstick fades off.

Lime Crime Lipstick (any color)-Has amazing color that lasts all day without looking dry or cracked.  The color is vibrant and it comes in many unusual shades.

Circadia Vitamin C Serum-Not heavy and dries quick.  Helps with my aging skin and gives me a nice glow.  It’s my “must have” product.

Moroccan Oil – My only must have for my hair.  It cuts my blow dry time in half and helps repair any damage to my hair and leaves my hair soft and tangle free all day. It doesn’t weight my hair down or make it oily like many other products.

Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor:

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20-It’s sheer and lightweight with a hint of color.  I get that perfect healthy looking glow.  Plus, I get my daily dose of sunscreen.

Urban Decay’s 24/7 Concealer Pencil-Perfect for hiding those dark circles and blemishes.  It’s a creamy formula that dries matte and stays put.

Therametics Lip Balm-“Heaven on a stick!”  An anti-aging lip balm that soothes and repairs dry chapped lips.

Hempz Body Moisturizer-100% pure natural hemp seed oil along with Vitamins A, C and E help to give your body a dramatic dose of hydration.

Mona Green, Esthetics Instructor:

Circadia Honey Cleanser-A micro-exfoliating cleanser that is gentle enough to use every day, without disturbing the protective lipid barrier.

Circadia Vitamin C-Heal and calms the skin while neutralizing free radicals.  It prevents collagen deterioration while restoring firmness, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smoothing uneven texture.

Circadia Night Time Repair-Encourages cell turnover, boosts radiance, increases elasticity and enhances the skin’s natural repair system.

Jennifer Hubbard, Nail Technician Instructor:

Green Stuff-My wonderful makeup remover and I use it to shave with.

Fake Bake-I love the look of a beautiful tan but don’t want to expose myself to the UV rays of a tanning bed.

Circadia Mandiclear Peel with Vitamin A Accelerator-This is my favorite peel.  I love the way my skin looks and feels afterwards.  It glows and feels a lot tighter.

Enjoy Smooth and Shine Serum-This is the only serum that I have found that keeps my hair shiny and smooth without leaving the feeling of heavy oily hair.

Coconut Oil-This is the only product that will penetrate into the hairs cortex.  This doesn’t leave your hair with the heavy oily feeling that other products can.

Check out this website to see how you can become a skin care professional too!

Associate of Occupational Science in Cosmetology, Cosmetology, Esthetics, Master Instructor

Makeup Trends from “The Hunger Games”

By now everyone has heard about the release of the blockbuster movie “The Hunger Games”.  What you may not realize is that movies like this set the trends we see in our makeup and hair every season. This movie has definitely inspired many of the trends we are seeing this Spring season.

For those of you that have not seen this movie or read the books, I will tell you a bit about how the movie has influenced the makeup and hair fun for this Spring.  In the movie the people that live in the Capital have amazing hair, makeup, and fashion in various bold colors. This is true for this Spring season for our makeup and hair.  Bold pops of color and bright lips or eyes are the common ways we are seeing this movie’s influence in how we wear our own makeup.

In keeping the the trends of Spring Season, the Clary Sage College Makeup Artistry students did a “Hunger Games” inspired photo shoot where they looked at characters from the movie and used them to inspire makeup and hair for their model.

Makeup and Hair by Maria Tecocoatzi, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Maria Tecocoatzi, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Ciera Horse, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Ciera Horse, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Cassandra Butler, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College.

Makeup and Hair by Cassandra Butler, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College.

Makeup and Hair by Jennifer Nelson, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Jennifer Nelson, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Stephanie Russell, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Stephanie Russell, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Girl on Fire Makeup by Cheyney Taylor, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

"Girl on Fire" Makeup by Cheyney Taylor, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Carly Migl, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Carly Migl, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Elizabeth Dodson, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Elizabeth Dodson, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Dominique Jordan, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Dominique Jordan, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Roxanne Leon, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Roxanne Leon, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Elizabeth Ashlock, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Elizabeth Ashlock, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Kade Beals, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Kade Beals, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Allena Williams, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College

Makeup and Hair by Allena Williams, Makeup Artistry Student at Clary Sage College