At the most recent Dallas Esthetic Show, I sought out my idol (and hopefully soon to be mentor), Dr. Pugliese. He is renown in the industry as a leader in skin care ingredient research and testing. Dr. Pugliese has also written one of my favorite books “Physiology of the Skin.” As a fellow scientist I appreciate his in depth knowledge and the continual research that he does.
During a classroom session, my new best friend, Dr. Pugliese (he may not be aware of this fact) and I were chatting about parabens, and all of a sudden this quiet, reserved man took on a whole different tone and voice. Dr. Pugliese, in no other words, explained that parabens are not harmful to the skin and that people are blindly blaming parabens without probable cause. I was absolutely astonished by this. As someone who eats organic, uses sulfate free products, and overall tries to be healthy, I have been under the impression for the past 5 years or so that parabens are bad. I had understood that parabens are wax preservatives that preserve the body and skin, like embalming fluid…yuck! However, as Dr. Pugliese explained, these waxes are widely regarded as safe and in fact; most foods contain these products in much higher content than any of our cosmetics. Parabens are only needed to be used at the .1% to effectively work as a preservative and most fruits contain over 100 times more of this amount than the cosmetics, yet there is little concern or any evidence to show that there are negative repercussions from using/ingesting this compound.
As a scientist, I appreciate looking at both sides of an argument, then making a decision. Personally, I haven’t quite decided how I feel about parabens, but I am now more open to research supporting the use of parabens. This definitely won’t be the last we hear about these molecules!
Summer is just around the corner and we need to clear up a few things about bacne. We’ve been so focused on our faces this winter and spring that we neglected our backs and now they are speaking out by breaking out.
The Skintourage is here to give you a few pointers on getting rid of and keeping away that unwanted “BACNE”.
Cleanse: You will want a frangrance-free and anti-bacterial cleanser. Many people over-cleanse the skin with harsh soaps and use vigorous scrubbing tools and products. The use of Alkaline-based surfactants or soaps not only rob skin of moisture, but also provide a bacteria-loving environment. This can also exacerbate the breakouts and slow down the healing process.
Tone: Spritz your back with an oil- and bacteria-controlling toner. Many bacne sufferers will try mentholated and alcohol astringents, which provide a cooling sensation, however in most cases these are SD alcohol-based, which strips the skin of lipids, causing the skin to over-produce oil. Look for alcohol-free toners in “smart trigger” packaging that allow for easy spritzing over your back.
Exfoliate gently: Many people use loofahs and brushes to try and rid the skin of back acne, which only worsens the condition. The use of such tools causes micro-lacerations in the skin, making it once again a hospitable environment for bacteria to breed and grow. A gentle fragrance-free scrub should be used instead. Lightly massage it over the area and rinse off.
Don’t squeeze and pick: Seek out the help of a licensed esthetician for a back treatment to clear impactions, gently exfoliate and moisturize appropriately.
And here are a few sneaky ways to prevent bacne in the first place:
1. Avoid waxy hair products that may come into contact with the skin on your back.
2. Wear cotton clothing versus synthetic fibers, which can trap oil and dead cells.
3. Pillowcases should be changed at least every other day and sheets twice a week. Avoid using fabric softeners on bed linens as they may cause a breakout.
4. Avoid tanning beds. Many believe that this will speed up the healing of breakouts; however, the effects are only temporary. UV exposure increases cell production, causing more breakouts.
Dr. Michael Breus answered:
Here are a few good facts that people should bear in mind:
• As we age, lack of sleep affects us more deeply and shows up more
prominently on our faces (which explains why dark circles, fine lines,
and pallid complexions aren’t a problem in our twenties despite the
late nights, but can be later on).
• Sleep induces the production of collagen, a key ingredient in firm,
• The skin’s capacity to hold water is enhanced by sleep, thereby
keeping skin moisturized and supple.
• Sleep deprivation can sting the immune system, leaving one
vulnerable to rashes and skin-related problems.
• Growth hormone peaks during deep sleep, and this hormone plays a
central role in initiating cellular repair.
As skin care professionals, the most common question we all seem to get asked is…What products do you use? Our skintourage bloggers put together a list of our top favorite “must have” products. Make sure to let us know what your must have products are! We want to hear from you.
Christen Brummett, Esthetics Arts Department Head:
Smashbox Makeup Primer-As someone with oily skin, I tend to shed makeup very quickly so having a makeup primer is a must if I plan to have makeup on my face for more than 2-3 hours. I love Smashbox’s Primer because it is super lightweight and silky feeling (due to all the silicone); it doesn’t break my face out and keeps my makeup on all day.
Skin Ceuticals CE Ferulic Acid-This stuff is amazing! The combination of Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid provides a power pack punch of antioxidant protection. This is one of the few products I have used that I really saw results in my skin.
Dermalogica’s PreCleanse– Used before your normal cleanser; it gets all the makeup off and smells amazing. Not to mention, it is a fabulous brush cleanser!
April Genshaw, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:
NYX Milk Eye Pencil-Perfect color base to make eyeshadow colors pop. I still use over a regular eye primer.
Coconut Oil-Fabulous for removing makeup before cleansing, hydrating skin treatment and cortex strengthening hair treatment.
Agadir Hair Spritz-Dual Purpose thermal iron enhancing spray, firm hold hair spritz.
Lip Balm-I’ve yet to find a favorite, but I always have to have something.
Lisa Johnson, Esthetics and Cosmetician Instructor:
Temptu Airbrush Foundation-it’s easy to apply, soft natural matte finish and lasts all day long without touching up.
Mirabella Lip Definer in Clear-Gives you the protection from bleeding and feathering lipstick without the worry of the “ring around the lips” look when the lipstick fades off.
Lime Crime Lipstick (any color)-Has amazing color that lasts all day without looking dry or cracked. The color is vibrant and it comes in many unusual shades.
Circadia Vitamin C Serum-Not heavy and dries quick. Helps with my aging skin and gives me a nice glow. It’s my “must have” product.
Moroccan Oil – My only must have for my hair. It cuts my blow dry time in half and helps repair any damage to my hair and leaves my hair soft and tangle free all day. It doesn’t weight my hair down or make it oily like many other products.
Emmy Downey, Esthetics Instructor:
Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20-It’s sheer and lightweight with a hint of color. I get that perfect healthy looking glow. Plus, I get my daily dose of sunscreen.
Urban Decay’s 24/7 Concealer Pencil-Perfect for hiding those dark circles and blemishes. It’s a creamy formula that dries matte and stays put.
Therametics Lip Balm-“Heaven on a stick!” An anti-aging lip balm that soothes and repairs dry chapped lips.
Hempz Body Moisturizer-100% pure natural hemp seed oil along with Vitamins A, C and E help to give your body a dramatic dose of hydration.
Mona Green, Esthetics Instructor:
Circadia Honey Cleanser-A micro-exfoliating cleanser that is gentle enough to use every day, without disturbing the protective lipid barrier.
Circadia Vitamin C-Heal and calms the skin while neutralizing free radicals. It prevents collagen deterioration while restoring firmness, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smoothing uneven texture.
Circadia Night Time Repair-Encourages cell turnover, boosts radiance, increases elasticity and enhances the skin’s natural repair system.
Jennifer Hubbard, Nail Technician Instructor:
Green Stuff-My wonderful makeup remover and I use it to shave with.
Fake Bake-I love the look of a beautiful tan but don’t want to expose myself to the UV rays of a tanning bed.
Circadia Mandiclear Peel with Vitamin A Accelerator-This is my favorite peel. I love the way my skin looks and feels afterwards. It glows and feels a lot tighter.
Enjoy Smooth and Shine Serum-This is the only serum that I have found that keeps my hair shiny and smooth without leaving the feeling of heavy oily hair.
Coconut Oil-This is the only product that will penetrate into the hairs cortex. This doesn’t leave your hair with the heavy oily feeling that other products can.
Check out this website to see how you can become a skin care professional too!
We have all heard the old adage “Beauty Is Only Skin Deep.” Well, recent research has shown that is not the case. Beauty actually begins on the inside, specifically in your gastrointenstinal tract. The foods you eat, and thus the micro/macronutrients you put in your body have a direct correlation on how healthy your skin is.
Here are a few things to make sure and keep stocked in your fridge this summer to keep you skin glowing:
Thanks to the large concentration of beta carotene found in sweet potatoes, they’re great for your complexion, and their protective qualities can even defend against sun exposure (but still use sun block, please).
A perfect summer snack, this tart-tasting treat is chock full of vitamin C (in fact, it contains more per serving than almost any other fruit). This vitamin C, in turn, helps the collagen in our skin stay firm. Other options for vitamin C: broccoli, strawberries, tomatoes, and, of course, oranges.
More than just a treat, sunflower seeds contain vast amounts of vitamin E, an antioxidant that slows the aging process of your skin, and can keep you looking younger for longer. You’ll also get a ton of Vitamin E from whole-grain cereals, Swiss chard, spinach, and more.
Full of antioxidants and phytonutrients, tea is a great break from the eight to ten glasses of water you should be drinking a day.
This delectable fish is bursting with omega-3 fatty acids, which are proven to stave off the body’s production of inflammatory substances. This, in and of itself, can decrease your number of wrinkles, clogged pores, and troublesome fine lines.
Referred to as one of the “super foods.” This powerful little berry is choc full of antioxidants that help with cell repair and cell turnover.
I’ve come across this question several times over the years, and have fully declared that I myself would attest to being addicted. At the age of 18 I lost my lip balm at a friends house one night and actually asked a gas station attendant if he could cover what I was short so that I could buy a new one. Now that is desperation!
Symptoms could include:
*applying heavy layers of balm before bed
*buying multiply tubes at a time; i.e. hoarding different types in your purse or car
*applying multiple times a day (something must always be covering the lip)
*having a tube in pretty much every room of your house
If any of these describe you, you aren’t alone.There is even a website www.lipbalmanonymous.com
In all seriousness there is science behind this addiction. Lets make this simple…….
Lips are Skin. Skin is complex and has layers. The top layer (stratum corneum) is mostly dead/dehydrated cells. As they die they should naturally flake away. When the cells flake away they send a signal to a deeper layer that will produce new plump cells (basal layer). This process is referred to as cellular turnover, which also slows down as you age. When you use lip balm or lip products it locks in moisture creating a barrier. The lips stay hydrated, but since not as many cells are sloughing away, the basal cell doesn’t get the signal for new cells.
Now, when the balm isn’t present, and the lips are exposed, they suddenly are dried out. The basal layer then is in overdrive trying to catch up. But then…. your lips are dry, so of course, more lip balm! The basal layers gets the “Never mind we’re fine signal” and it’s a cycle. We have trained our lips to rely on this hydrating protective barrier. Decide for yourself if you’re addicted or wanting to continue with your addiction. I personally will continue. I just love the feeling of lip balm/lipstick or lipgloss. It just makes me Happy! We all have those double lipgloss days.
If a slimmer waistline and New Years resolutions haven’t curbed your sweet tooth, maybe the desire for smooth skin will. Experts now believe that a lifetime of overeating sugar can make skin dull and wrinkled.
At blame is a natural process known as glycation, the sugar in your bloodstream attaches to proteins to form harmful new molecules called advanced glycation end products (AGEs for short).
The more sugar you eat, the more AGEs you develop. Collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and elastic, become dry and brittle with AGEs, leading to wrinkles and sagging. The good news is: it’s never too late to turn back the clock by topically applying retinoids and vitamin c daily.
By Jennifer Hubbard
The skin is an incredible organ. It can go from a beautiful glow to an outbreak of blackheads and whiteheads in a matter of days. What causes this you might ask? Well, there could be all sorts of things that factor into the skin turning into a hot mess.
Breakouts can be caused from your menstrual cycle, hormones, stress, a change in makeup, the food that you are eating or weather conditions. One thing you don’t think about is your health. If you become sick your skin will become dull or breakout. If you have a toothache, you might have an outbreak of whiteheads start showing in your neck and chest.
Breakout Due to Toothache
These can turn into skin abscesses which can develop anywhere on the body. They occur when a bacterial infection causes pus to collect in the skin. Skin abscesses can develop under the surface of the skin (subcutaneous) or on the skin (cutaneous) and can drain naturally and disappear without any treatment.
Larger abscesses can be treated with antibiotics to clear the infection and surgery to drain away the pus. Without treatment, an abscess may continue to get larger and more painful until it eventually bursts.
Makeup primer is one of those beauty secrets that can make a big difference in the look and wear of your makeup. It preps your skin for makeup and creates a smooth base that makeup can adhere well to. If you’ve tried a foundation that looks fantastic on a friend or a model in a magazine only to be disappointed with the results, using makeup primers can make a big difference. Even if you are happy with the foundation you are currently using, a layer of cosmetics primer underneath can bring it to a whole new level.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you learn how to apply makeup primer:
Step 1: First you will need to use moisturizer. Putting any makeup on top of dry skin usually leads to trouble later in the day. Choose a light moisturizer as heavy creams tend to make primer slide right off your skin. Be sure to let the moisturizer sit for a few minutes to allow it to be absorbed into your skin.
Step 2: Pump or pour a small amount of the primer into your hand. Dip a damp foundation wedge sponge into the primer and dab it gently onto your face, beginning under your eyes and around your nose.
Step 3: Next, add the primer to your forehead, chin, nose, and cheeks.
Step 4: Using the same sponge, blend the primer into your skin. Be sure you cover all areas as evenly as possible, but it’s okay to use a little extra in places where your makeup tends to wear off quickly, such as in the T-zone or over large pores.
Step 5: Wait a few minutes for your primer to dry before applying foundation and concealer.
Step 6: Most foundation primers aren’t suited for the eyelids, but you can purchase a primer specifically designed for the eyelid. Eyeshadow is often the first makeup to fade during the day. A good eye makeup primer can help you get much more mileage out of even the cheapest eyeshadows. Just rub some into your eyelids before applying shadow to help your shadow stick to your lids all day.
Once you know how to use makeup primer, you’ll have an extra secret weapon at your disposal to help you achieve the ultimate in your makeup look for your next special occasion.
New labeling and testing requirements are effective for all sunscreen products;
Many common phrases used on sunscreen products, such as sunblock, waterproof, or prevents skin cancer are no longer permitted by the United States FDA. Furthermore, specific testing must be done for each sunscreen before other claims about the products UVA and UVB protection can be made.
This should dramatically improve the quality and claims of all sunscreens which have been very confusing and misleading to the public in the past.
The formula for figuring what SPF means is as follows:
SPF15 means each person’s MED (maximum exposure direct sunlight before burning) x 15
So if you burn in 20 minutes in the sun, your sunscreen protection of SPF15 is 15 x 20 minutes which equals 300 minutes or 5 hours protection. After 5 hours you would need to reapply, of course immediately if you come in contact with water or experience sweating.
You see very quickly how sunscreens of SPF 50 and higher become almost silly (50×20=1000.00 min. or 16 hours and 40 minutes). They offer longer coverage but less than 1% additional protection.
As we begin to dream about sunny days, it’s important to remember that UV ray exposure happens every day with any daylight regardless of rain or snow or cloudy days. SPF protection should be part of our daily routine after every washing in order to slow down the effects of sun exposure aging and sun exposure skin problems.
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